Another evening at Cube in Hollywood equals another epic bottle of wine.  2006 Dettori Bianco is 100% Vermentino, fermented (old school style) in cement vats.  Totally un-fooled-around-with, completely natural.  Feral even.

There is always a discussion around Dettori’s wines and their inevitable bottle variation, which is something I happen to love.  Every bottle is different, each on with its own personality, its singular nuances.


This particular bottle of Dettori Bianco was full of interesting aromatics: black tea, cardamom and lime zest.  The palate was textured, chewy even, and full of naturally-occurring tannins from an extended skin contact maceration.  The color is also captivating- this opalescent goldenrod, not quite opaque, belying the unfiltered, uncontrolled, savage winemaking traditions of this mythic winery.

Fascinating, rapidly changing in the glass, and absolutely a wine that begs not to be decanted.  In fact, this wine totally reminded me of a recent article by’s Jeremy Parzen regarding the debate surrounding decantation.  In my opinion, the beauty of this Vermentino is that she reveals herself slowly- you’d be a fool to rush with premature oxygenation!


The wine paired exquisitely with Cube’s array of cheeses and cured meats- and especially well with a salty duck salame.  Next time I’d also love to taste this Vermentino with a simple plate of spaghetti alla bottarga …