Timorasso by Walter Massa, Photobomb by Michael Newsome.
If you are an adventurous wine-drinker who finds him or herself at Terroni in Los Angeles, do not attempt to navigate this wine list alone. Ask for Max Stefanelli, or his wife Francesca. They will guide you through this maze of eclectic and wonderful Italian wines. There are no limits to the breadth and oceanic depths of this wine list. For example, recently Max suggested an odd bottling of Timorasso from Vigneti Massa, which I had never seen before- the 2008 “Sterpi”.
Golden-orange in the glass and redolent of bruised red apples, apricots and acacia, this wine is singular both for its heavy fruit aromatics, and equally unparalleled minerality. The Sterpi Timorasso is another classic example of a White Wine That Can Age.
The vineyard name “Sterpi” comes from the word “sterpaglia” or “undergrowth”. Apparently when Walter Massa was looking for a single vineyard to plant in the 1980’s while he single-handedly saved the varietal Timorasso from extinction, he chose this spot, where before only grew scrubby brush plants and undergrowth.
Walter Massa: a visionary, and a master of Timorasso. Thanks Max, for making sure we tasted this little jewel!